![]() ![]() For access to the nuts, though, you'll have to virtually disassemble the rear interior compartment, starting with removal of the seat cushions (bottom and back). This will expose the screw for the C-pillar molding. Removal of the rear windshield trim is straightforward - remove the screws and gently pull away from the body. Rear Window/C-Pillar: The stainless molding at the base of the C-pillar is held in place with three speed nuts inside the car, and a screw in the pinch weld under the exterior rear window molding. Dirt and sealant will hold this tight in the groove, so be patient and work slowly. The center molding over the windshield is held in place with a screw on each end, and a rib in the bottom of the molding presses into the windshield rubber gasket - again, remove the screws and gently work/pry the molding out. Slowly wiggle it loose, and you should be able to pull it off with the upper corner molding at the same time. ![]() Once the screws and retainers are removed, you should be able to pry the windshield post moldings away from the body. You will also have to uncrimp the upper corner molding from the drip rail channel. There are also retaining screws that are covered with sealant for the upper corner moldings that will have to come out. When you open the doors, there will be stainless steel/chrome retainers for the weatherstrip that will have to be removed by taking out the phillips head screws. It is some of the best money I spent for restoration of my Best-Of-Show '63 Hardtop.įront Windshield: There are numerous pieces you'll have to remove. It will help you see how things were assembled at the factory, and it has a weath of info to assist you with other parts of the car as well. But, before you do, I HIGHLY recommend getting a copy of the '62 Body/Trim/Sealer Assembly Manual, which is available in reprint form from T-bird parts vendors. ![]()
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